Ahalanui

I've lived on the Big Island for a combined 21 years, but until last year, I'd never even heard of Ahalanui. It's been on my bucket list since then, however, and on Saturday we finally found the time to make the long drive over there. It was admittedly not the easiest day trip we've ever taken- there was plenty of driving, some nausea (tons of winding roads and rolling hills), lots of erroneous directions, some bickering...and we didn't get home until 10pm. But trust me, it was worth it. I promise.

We had a late start out of Kona, so rather than take the slightly longer, slower southern route through South Kona/Volcano, we decided to take Saddle Road to Hilo instead. We found our way over to Hwy 130 easily enough (which takes you through Pahoa, a town I last visited when I was probably 10). But where we went wrong was in trying to follow two very vaguely worded sets of directions. So we ended driving about 20 miles more than we needed too on some unpleasant roads, and having to ask a number of people for directions. It's truly a wonder why this park (which is really quite tucked away in the middle of nowhere) completely lacks signage...perhaps the powers that be (or the locals) kind of want to keep it kind of hidden? Administrative oversight? Because I think it's a gem, and I couldn't imagine a single visitor wanting to pass this place up!Nonetheless, getting to and from the park (whichever way you choose) is still a beautiful drive. We drove through more shaded tree tunnels than I knew existed on the island.
And once we did locate the park (the entrance is both simple and easy to miss), it was like Shangri La. A semi-circle of trees surround the lagoon (creating an amazing shaded, grassy area to picnic or nap), and there were pool ladders to help enter and exit the clear water (helpful, because at high tide, it was quite deep). There was also stadium-style seating built into the bordering the walls of the pond, making it the perfect place to alternately sit and soak for hours...or days... ;-)
The water wasn't nearly as warm as we'd expected (because it was high tide the waves were crashing over the sea wall/pouring into the pond and cooling it off). Still, it was decidedly warmer than any ocean water we've ever swam in. We loved hunting down 'hot spots' within the pond where you could feel the warm, volcanically heated water seeping up.
It's funny, we've never forgotten Ryan's swim clothes before, but since we did on Saturday, we had to let him swim in his underwear. It worked out perfectly though, because the warmer water allowed him to stay in much longer than he normally would have in his skivvies.

The water is remarkably clear, and perhaps due to the purifying effects of the geothermal hot spring- I swear my skin felt softer and smoother once we were done. But don't quote me on this...it may have been more wishful thinking. :-)He didn't mind in the least, of course. But as is always the case, no matter how warm the water is and how much he romps/splashes around, our semi-scrawny son became cold and had to exit the water after about an hour. :-)
The story of Ryan's life...warming up outside the water so he can go back in. :-)

I have to say, Ahalanui definitely makes my Top 5 list on the island, and a must-do for anyone, locals or visitors alike. I'm already planning a return trip with Ryan's cousins later this year, but with an overnight stay this time (to break up the driving). I think we spent close to 6 hours in the car yesterday, which was a whooooole lot more of Katy Perry's Firework than I'd ever wanted to hear (on repeat, Ryan's insistence) in one car ride. :-)

My list of the Big Island's best (in no particular order):

1. Volcano
2. Hapuna
3. Snorkeling at Kealakekua Bay (near the Capt. Cook monument)
4. Kiholo Bay (the actual bay and water-filled lava tube)
5. Pu'u Honua O Honaunau

The expanded list:
6. Makalawena
7. Waipio Valley
8. Liliuokalani Gardens (& the nearby canals/waterways), with your okazu-ya boxed lunch!
9. Kamakahonu
10. Oooh, this is getting tough...maybe Black Sand beach down in Punalu'u?

Our Directions (so you don't have to get lost, nauseous and bicker with your spouse): Take Hwy 130 out of Hilo toward Pahoa. Right after you pass the new shopping center in Pahoa, (trust me, you can't miss it), turn left at the next traffic light and take the winding road down. At the end of the winding road (near Isaac Hale park), turn left...and the park (Ahalanui) will be on your right between the 8 & 10 mileage markers. You won't see a large sign announcing the park, but it's the one with a gated parking lot and tons of cars fronting a few pavilions. Total driving time from the edge of Hilo is no more than 40-45 minutes, so it's a nice half-day trip from Hilo.

One more warning: The pool is pretty deep. I couldn't stand up in 95% of it, so it's not what you'd call keiki-friendly unless your child can swim independently. Be prepared to have to float or swim (vs. standing or sitting in the water) while you're there. :-) We brought a boogie board and a tube that we bought at a garage sale on the way out (that we handed off to some kids before we left) that were invaluable for Ryan!