Saturday, March 29, 2014

Hong Kong Day 9 (Aberdeen & The Peak)

On this day we got to ride the renowned Hong Kong double-decker buses. As touted- they were cheap, immaculate (no litter/graffiti), modern and efficient. We especially getting to ascend stairs to the top and securing the front seats on that level (you're never too old to enjoy that stuff...when you're country folk anyway).


We were headed over to the other side of the island to Aberdeen in search of calmer waters for Ryan to ride a boat. The Star Ferry between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island, while incredibly scenic and cheap (think of the Staten Island Ferry's views of downtown Manhattan for a few dollars)...looked incredibly choppy. Plus, the harbor over in Aberdeen contained sampan boats, which I've long dreamed of seeing.

Aberdeen Harbor holds the distinction (or perhaps infamy depending on who you ask) of being the place where the British first set foot on Chinese territory. It's also where the Tanka people once fished the waters, and where a few still live/work on their houseboats. Which is why the area is nicknamed "Floating Village." Recent estimates are that there are still hundreds of Tanka houseboats on the water there, although I failed to see any. And though I wasn't able to clarify, I believe this is the harbor where many people store their boats during the typhoon season, but is also known for its incredible views. I had hoped to see some historic, authentic sampans manned by grizzly fisherman plying the waters, but it seems tourism has taken over and most if not all of boats trolling around are newer.

It was also our intent to hop on over to Jumbo World...a consortium of high end seafood restaurants that opened to much aplomb a few decades ago. I believe it cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $30 million HK dollars to construct. Though this too was a tad tacky, it was also impressive in its own way.

The sampan boats of Aberdeen Harbor

I'm slipping this odd photo in because I thought it was so cute that they had a sink meant for children there, but that it was still too little for our growing boy. 
The rear view of Jumbo World as we walked along the harbor
The interior of one of the very touristy sampans
We walked along the harbor to try and get to the floating village...which took us through a very old, semi dangerous, interesting, technically 'closed' harbor work area. You know, the 'other' side of the touristy harbor that we were interested to see.




We had time to kill until the Jumbo World opened, so Rich and Ryan scored a surprisingly affordable, much less commercialized private sampan tour of the harbor. This was entirely because the tour groups had not yet arrived and the captains were more amendable to bargaining. Just the two boys went as my mom and I suffer from motion sickness, and my dad stayed back to you know, protect the womenfolk.




Once they returned, we all hopped on a short boatride over to the restaurants...


Front view of Jumbo World
There are a handful of upscale seafood restaurants there, one of which had an attached, massive floating platform filled with tanks of very fresh fish/shellfish. I think it was about 2-3 times larger than this picture shows.


The vibrant launching dock of the boats ferrying passengers to and from the floating restaurants
The Aberdeen Harbor also hosts a famous dragon boat race. Our team is ready.
The harbor is home to both the simple, old  houseboats of the Tanka, as well as the multi-million dollar yachts of the Hong Kong elite. We were pointed out the area of Jackie Chan's boat, but they weren't sure which one was his.
After we left Aberdeen, we took another bus over to Victoria Peak. We intended to ride up in the aerial tramway, but since this was the trip of cursed transportation- it was closed for no discernible reason. We were told "bad weather" but it was warm, sunny and had no high wind, so we're not quite sure. The slow ride crawling up the winding mountain in a cramped bus wasn't pleasant, but at least we got there.

One of the many funky buildings in downtown Hong Kong Island that we passed on our way up to the Peak
The view from the top (that's a water reservoir)...pretty, but not the million dollar view.
The million dollar view of Causeway Bay between HK Island and Kowloon..stunning. I haven't been to Sydney yet, but I'm willing to bet it can only tie this harbor view.

Ryan and Grandpa 'racing' on the rooftop while we take in the view
Here it is again on a clearer day (probably years ago, pre-pollution crises) taken by a camera far better than mine... Despite all those buildings (as far as the eye can see), they still have some of the world's priciest real estate.


3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Why didn't you take your other two sons on this vacation? Love all the pictures.

Jolene said...

I thought my snarky brother posted this comment but he just said it wasn't him.

I don’t have two other sons. But I have two nephews that live a quarter mile away that we see a lot! I definitely only have one child that I know of. (You know, not including the ones the state took away or that Rich has in secret.) :-)

Anonymous said...

Thanks for explaining. Sorry, I thought the other boys were yours as well. My bet. Oh, and I am not your brother just a travel loving reader from CO. Love all the pics you are posting....