The Lost Hawaiian: Kyoto Days 1 & 2

We left Kona at the crack of dawn on Monday to fly to Oahu, but because we had a long layover there, Rich took Ryan over to Pearl Harbor to check out the USS Bowfin. I'd also tried to get tickets online to the memorial the night before, but in case you're wondering- they're sold out until around 2053 (great news if you're trying book tickets for your unborn great-great-grandchildren). The day before our trip there, I talked with Ryan about the bombings of Pearl Harbor & Hiroshima and how time has paved the way for our countries friendship (since I didn't want to take the chance of him angrily staring down any Japanese the next few days).

We had a smooth, direct 9-hour flight on Hawaiian Air (we were given an entire row of bulkhead seats...score!), which is still my favorite carrier for customer service. It was the first time I've ever flown them internationally though, and it did not disappoint. Once we disembarked in Kansai, I took Ryan to the potty, where he excitedly spotted his first squat toilet (and politely declined to use). After immigration, we queued to buy tickets for the speedy express Haruka train to Kyoto (not a bullet train, but direct and fast). It was a treat for Rich and I to use since we used to travel to and from the airport via a series of three (cheaper) local trains. But because of the late hour and traveling with Ryan, we figured it would be easier to travel via the Haruka.

Guess who waited up to meet us even though we didn't arrive until after 9pm local time/2am HI time?

We were greeted by two very, very excited little boys who excitedly helped guide us to our apartment (which they had kindly pre-scouted) in the historic Higashiyama district in the heart of downtown Kyoto-shi (Kyotophiles- we're right near Heian Jingu off of Sanjo-dori). They were so worried about Ryan properly boarding the train (having never seen him do it on his own since we never travel with them) that they both nervously grabbed his hands/body to firmly guide him over the 3-inch gap into the train car. Beyond adorable.

The next morning we braved the intense heat and humidity (think 90 degrees with 80% humidity, which feels like 100) and loaded up on some critical provisions.

Just kidding! I didn't get any, but still...it was nice to be reunited with an old friend.

Shortly after we hopped on the Hankyu line to meet up with Mika & the boys in Arashiyama...where we all climbed up Iwatayama mountain in search of the cute little brown monkeys we once visited quite frequently. Just hopping on the Hankyu line was such a comfortable, familiar feeling for the both of us since it's the line we rode to work and play daily for years.

Interestingly, everything about the line was exactly same- the car color, the seats (gotta love that green velour), even the prices (no change in 16 years)! I think it's because in Japan, train lines are not only national (Japan Railway), but also private...so I'm guessing that there is probably an effort to keep the brand consistent, competitive and clean.

Once got to Arashiyama, despite the heat bath, the boys took off like rockets, essentially ditching the old farts who slowly staggered up the hill, dripping wet and fanning themselves dramatically (okay, perhaps this only me).

Ringing the bell at the shrine at the base of Iwatayama

Our own monkeys

Once at the top, we bought apples and peanuts to let the boys feed the monkeys. These monkeys are infamous for being able to quickly transform from being quiet, peaceful, nursing...

...to screeching, viscous teeth-baring primates who will maul each other for an apple slice. Seriously. Kinda hysterical. It's like showing me a piece of cheesecake after a long run and then suggesting I share half with the giver. Please. Sharing is for preschoolers.

The rest of the afternoon we let the boys play at the little park at the top of the mountain, cruised the Katsura-gawa (river), and then hit Kawaramachi (town) to get lunch together.